The land of the rising sun

kamogawa river

Kamogawa River, Kyoto Japan

I am finally over the jet lag from our latest trip to Japan. It took quite a few sleepy days and a couple mostly sleepless nights, but yes, we’re home and we’re sane again. When we left I was wearing sandals… not any more, it’s definitely time to pull out the wellies and the mittens. Thanksgiving has come and gone. I wonder what kind of winter we will have here in the Pacific Northwest.

This trip to Japan was actually the first in a very long time that had sightseeing as a prime component. Normally we are in Japan for business and to see family. We eat a lot of great Japanese food we can’t get at home, Blue Eyes attends a bunch of sales meetings, sometimes we see friends, and then we’re back, in a flash. Roughly 20 hours of flight time and a bunch of trains and subways, and that is a dose of Japan to us. Since we lived there in the mid 80’s, I have been back more than a half dozen times and Blue Eyes has traveled there literally dozens and dozens of times, sometimes traveling to Japan twice a month during the early days of our business. It is like our second home.

This time, however, was all about a one year old’s birthday celebration, and autumn color. I have been dreaming about this trip for years. The thing is, we were actually a little early for fall color. I’ll have to remember that for next time. Even though we weren’t in prime season for some sights, especially in Tokyo, I have never seen so many tourists in Japan. The temple and shrine grounds in Kyoto were literally crawling with out-of-towners. Chinese tours made up a lot of the population. I have not seen that before either.

Sadly enough, in Tokyo, Blue Eyes missed some of the most beautiful weather days, but hey, someone had to pay the price for such a lovely trip.

We all converged on Tokyo over Halloween weekend (not a big holiday in Japan) and settled in to the modern 1800 square foot house we had rented in the Meguro District. Me, Blue Eyes, both our boys and a friend of our younger son, plus my parents. The beds in the house were maxed out, including the futon style beds on the lower level, AND the three children’s beds the big boys crammed themselves into. Jet lag on arrival in Japan is not too bad, especially if a person is able to nap on the plane ride. I cannot sleep on planes, but by the time we arrived, late afternoon, got our bags, procured our J-Rail train passes, caught the Narita Express in to Shinagawa then took taxis to the house, it was nearing 8:00pm. A short three hours later we were all asleep.

Saturday was a day to relax and get settled in to our new neighborhood. Later in the day my brother, GQ, and his wife, brought The Princess (introduced in my blog here A ray of sunshine) by the house. She started daycare a few months ago and it seems she is always sick, poor little girl, but she is a trooper and hardly complains at all. I am going to post a picture of her because I think she is the cutest thing and I know my brother will never see this blog… and if he does, he is in for a lot bigger surprise than seeing his daughter’s face here!

Here is The Princess, in sleepy mode:

The Princess

The Princess

Most of our week in Tokyo was dedicated to birthday party festivities. The Sunday and Monday after our arrival, GQ and SIL were off work and we wandered the streets of Tokyo hitting Ginza, Muji Cafeteria, Marunouchi, Hibiya Park, and Monday eve we had a wonderful dinner together as a family celebrating my mother’s 72nd birthday. Tuesday was a gorgeous sunny and warm day in Tokyo, a national holiday as it turned out, and we all gathered at my brother’s favorite little French restaurant for a celebratory lunch in honor of The Princess. This restaurant is special to my brother and his wife as they had their first date there, they had their first dinner as a married couple there over 10 years ago, and they likewise celebrated at this restaurant when they found out they were pregnant. Fine restaurants in Japan generally do not allow children at all unless for a private party, so my brother rented the entire restaurant and 14 of us enjoyed the most exquisite five course meal. The day was beautiful, and Blue Eyes and I were so full, we decided to walk the approximate four miles back to our rental house. The iPhone map app took us on quite the circuitous adventure, however, we had a lot of fun on our journey.

By Wednesday, Blue eyes was off on his long day of work in Kyoto and the rest of us had a very late start to Kamakura. Even though I have visited Tokyo many times, I had never been to the city of Kamakura. “Kamakura was once considered the capital of Japan as it was the seat of the Shogunate and the Regency during the Kamakura Period.” (Wikipedia) It is a natural fortress as it is surrounded on three sides by hills and one side by water, it is located approximately 30 miles out of Tokyo towards the southwest on the Sagami Bay, and is a very popular tourist destination as there is a beach, and numerous significant and beautiful temples and shrines. Because our time was limited, we decided we must see the Daibutsu, The Great Buddha, and we only had time for one shrine and Hasedera was closest. We were not disappointed. Next time I will return with Blue Eyes and we will see more, but I can say we all enjoyed our afternoon in Kamakura. We took the little old Enoden Line train to Hase Station and walked to Hasedera (Hase Temple).

outside hasedera

The grounds of Hasedera

hasedera wishes

Prayers for the children, small statues of Jizo

On the walls above and along the steps leading to the 30 foot wooden statue of Kannon (the goddess of mercy), and as seen on the terraced wall above in the photo, are small Jizo statues. Jizo is the guardian diety of children. The statues represent souls of miscarried, stillborn or aborted children. More than 50,000 Jizo statues have been offered here since World War II. The current Jizo, about a thousand of them, will remain for only about a year and then will be burned or buried to make room for more. Parents come to Hasedera and purchase these Jizo in the hopes that the diety will protect and watch over their children.

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Jizo statues, some personalized

hasedera candle blessings

Buddhist prayer candles

Hasedera1

Hasedera

Inside the building above stands the 30 foot tall carved wooden statue of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. No photos are allowed. It is one of the largest wooden statues in Japan and is made from camphor wood and gilded in gold. It has 11 heads, each head representing a different phase in the search for enlightenment.

According to legend, there were two large Kannon statues carved out of one huge camphor tree in 721. One was enshrined in Hasedera in Nara (Yamato Province) and the other was set out to sea to find the place with which it had a karmic connection. The statue washed ashore near Kamakura in 736 and this temple was built around it. (Wikipedia)

Hasedera

Hasedera

bamboo grover

Small bamboo grove on Hasedera grounds

kamakura seaside

Kamakura seaside as seen from Hasedera

After leaving Hasedera, we walked about 10 minutes up the road to the Great Buddha, Daibutsu, an outdoor bronze statue of Amida Buddha. This statue is one of the most famous icons of Japan and I cannot believe I had never been to see it.

daibutsu

Koutoku-in, Daibutsu, Kamakura Japan

The statue weighs 267,000 pounds and is about 44 feet high. By the time we left the buddha, it was getting dark and we headed home.

The next day was The Princess’s actual first birthday and we headed off to Yoyogi Park where she was able to feed ponies at the pony park. Who knew there was such a thing in the middle of Tokyo?

feeding ponies

feeding the pony named Cream

From the pony park, we walked over to Meiji jingu, a famous shrine in the middle of Yoyogi park in the middle of bustling Tokyo.

wedding

Shinto wedding processional at Meiji Jingu

shinto wedding

Shinto wedding ceremony at Meiji Jingu

kimono at meiji shrine

Mother and daughter at Meiji Shrine in traditional kimono style clothing

There is a traditional rite of passage in Japan held annually called Shichi-Go-San (Seven-Five-Three) and dates to the Heian Period for nobility and the Meiji period for commoners. It is when three and seven year old girls and three and five year old boys celebrate childhood growth and well being. They wear traditional kimono style clothing and visit the shrine. Often the mother, and sometimes the father, dress in traditional clothing as well. In the picture above of the mother and daughter, they had a professional photographer along to capture the day.

meiji shring

Meiji Shrine

imperial palace tokyo

View of Imperial Palace Moat during picnic lunch at the outer Imperial Palace grounds on Friday

Our second Saturday in Tokyo was solely dedicated to The Princess’s birthday party celebration. Her Japanese grandparents brought Cristal Champagne for everyone to enjoy. We feasted on goodies from Dean & Deluca (yeah, of course GQ caters through Dean & Deluca?!?) delicious Japanese birthday cake and the princess got to topple around (for about 60 seconds) wearing a 4.5 pound piece of mochi (Sweet Japanese Rice Cake) on her little back. For gosh sakes the girl weighs less than 16 pounds. Say what? I know.

cristal

Two bottles of Cristal, to get this party started!

birthday cake

Deliciously delicate Japanese Birthday Cake with whipped cream frosting

mochi

The baby’s mochi pack?

“By carrying out this odd (and brief) ritual, good-intended parents wish for their precious child (all through his or her life) to be blessed with health, food and Enman (円満). 円満 represents perfection, harmony, peace, smoothness, completeness, satisfaction as well as integrity.” (blackcabbit.wordpress.com)

The Princess did a stellar job of carrying her mochi pack and no doubt all her parent’s wishes for her will come true.

Saturday night after the festivities were over, we wandered over to a famous Tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) restaurant in our neighborhood. The whole place was like a throw back to the 1940’s. I think some of the guys had been working there that long too. I don’t normally eat fried, but this place is a legend, so I indulged and didn’t feel too bad afterwards.

tonki tonkatsu

Cool older guy frying up the pork at Tonki Tonkatsu, Meguro Tokyo

tonki tonkatsu 1

Dinner at Tonki Tonkatsu

Saturday had been rainy, but we didn’t much care because we spent most of the day inside partying. Sunday was even more miserably wet, so Blue Eyes and I decided to go to a craft museum and that was cool. As the day wore on, however, I started having some tummy problems. I sent the boys off for Sukiyaki dinner on Sunday night and I stayed back at the house.

Monday my parents moved to a hotel as they were staying in Tokyo to spend a few more days with my brother and his family. Our older son needed to fly back to Brooklyn for work, and the rest of us took the Shinkansen to Kyoto for three nights. The first day I wasn’t feeling great, but managed to make it out sightseeing. We headed out to a place I am very familiar with, Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavilion.

map kinkakuji

Map of Kinkakuji grounds, Kyoto Japan

kinkakuji grounds

Our first taste of real fall color, the grounds at Kinkakuji

the golden pavilion

Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavilion

kinkakuji colors 2

More Kinkakuji color

kinkakuji

Kinkakuji

Kinkakuji was built in 1397 to serve as a retirement villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, as part of his estate then known as Kitayama. The Golden Pavilion, or Kinkaku, is a three-story building on the grounds of the temple. The top two stories of the pavilion are covered with pure gold leaf. The pavilion functions as a shariden, housing relics of the Buddha. On the roof is a golden fenghuang or “Chinese phoenix.” (japaneseincense.com)

kinkakuji colors

Beautiful color on the Kinkakuji grounds

tending the incense

Tending the incense outside Kinkakuji

Burning incense for purification of the surroundings and to welcome in the buddhas, etc…

pink tea gold flecks

Lovely pink tea with gorgeous gold flecks, at the stalls on the way out of Kinkakuji

As we left Kinkakuji I was starting to feel a bit more under the weather, stomach problems, a bit of a fever, a little chilly even though it was very temperate. Our son had found a beautiful looking spot for autumn leaf color on the outskirts of Kyoto at a temple named Ruriko-in. The temple grounds are only open to the public for a very short period of time in November each year and although he did find it on trip advisor, it is supposedly a fairly well kept secret to the Japanese. I really wanted to go, so we headed there immediately.

fall colors kyoto

Fall colors at Ruriko-in Kyoto

garden at rurakuin

Gardens at Ruriko=in

gardens at rurakuin

Gardens at Ruriko-in

As it turns out, most of my best pictures actually had us in them. But I think you can get the idea of how gorgeous it is at this temple.

I could feel myself fading fast, so Blue Eyes and I headed straight back to the hotel while the boys headed off to more adventures.

On our way back up to our room, I HAD to stop at the Pierre Hermé store in the lobby of our hotel to purchase an Ispahan delicacy to try.

ispahan macaron

Pierré Herme Ispahan Macaron Dessert

TOTALLY CAROLINE has been telling me about these concoctions, exclusively Pierre Hermé (created by him), since she found out we had a Pierre Hermé Patisserie in our hotel. The croissants are what she recommended, and they are filled with rose almond paste, raspberry and litchi compote, topped with a rosewater glaze and a sprinkling of dried raspberry pieces. They are as divine as TC made them out to be.

ispahan croissant

Rooibos Orange and Cinnamon Tea, brewed for me in our hotel room by Blue Eyes, gorgeous flower arrangement, also from Blue Eyes, and the delicious Ispahan Croissant, recommended by TotallyCaroline, and which Blue Eyes and I shared as it is naughtily sweet

We had this as a snack, and I was doing okay, so we later ordered in a room service dinner. I couldn’t eat much of it and I really paid the price for eating anything at all. I was up and in the bathroom all night with a horrible stomach bug.

The next morning I was not feeling much better and so I sent Blue Eyes off to find some Immodium so the whole day was not wasted. Usually I am better at remembering to bring a stash of medications with me on International trips for emergencies just like these. This time, I forgot. Blue Eyes, with the help of the concierge, was able to find something that we think was Immodium. I took some, and then I took some more. By mid afternoon, and no food consumption for approximately 18 hours, I felt good enough for one final excursion of the trip, Kiyomizu-dera, one of my favorite spots in Kyoto.

heading to kiyomizu

The shopping road to Kiyomizu-dera

shopping in kimono

Shopping in kimono. There are kimono rental shops all around Kiyomizu. You can rent a kimono for a few hours and join the tradition, if you are so inclined. Frankly, walking in those wooden shoes takes some skill!

looking out from kiyomizu

The top of the street looking back to Kyoto from the entrance to Kiyomizu

shrine at kiyomizu

Three-Storied Pagoda at Kiyomizu

view from kiyomizu

Another view of Kyoto from Kiyomizu

kimono at kiyomizu

More kimono at Kiyomizu

the crowds at kiyomizu

In some pictures I may be able to take photos around the crowds, but not this time. Look at all those people? I have never seen it like this.

Located halfway up Otowa Mountain in the eastern part of Kyoto City, Kiyomizu-dera is a historic temple that was established in 778, even before Kyoto became the capital of Japan. Since its foundation, the temple has burned down many times. Most of the current buildings were rebuilt by the third Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu in the early Edo period (1631 to 1633). The Main Hall (Hondo) of the temple is designated as a national treasure. (kiyomizudera.or.jp)

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Here’s a beautiful photo I borrowed off the internet to show what it looks like when there aren’t swarms of people on the deck and construction going on.

kiyomizu

Kiyomizu-dera (the temple of clear water) was named after Otowa Waterfall. Water from a spring in the mountain has been falling there since its foundation. Pictured above is the ritual of catching or drinking the water, which is believed to have magical powers. Each stream’s water is said to have a different benefit, namely to cause longevity, success at school, and a fortunate love life. However, drinking from all three streams is considered greedy.

little pagoda

Three-storied Koyasu Pagoda stands among the trees in the far southern end of the temple grounds, and a visit is said to bring about an easy and safe childbirth.

By the time we headed out, it was dusk and there were still hundreds and hundreds of people enjoying the sights and the restaurants and the shopping all around Kiyomizu. We stopped at one shop and I purchased a little vase for our future beach house.

leaving kiyomizu

Leaving Kiyomizu. I would have liked to have stayed and shopped more and ate, but I was still very sick. I felt lucky to have been able to visit at all.

I made it back to the hotel fine, and ordered a bowl of rice for dinner. I was once again up all night in the bathroom. Fortunately, by the time we left the hotel the next morning at 10:00am, caught a taxi to Kyoto Station, caught a Shinkansen to Shinagawa Station, caught a Narita Express to the airport, and spent 8 hours on a plane back home, I was doing pretty okay.

It did take days to recuperate and conquer the jet lag, but I feel good now.

We will return to Japan next year, maybe for Hanami (Cherry Blossom Season), and the trip will include shopping for our beach house. I have also, once again, caught the Japan sightseeing bug. There are so many more fun parks, and castles, and shrines, and temples to see. Plus, there is that little Princess…

7 thoughts on “The land of the rising sun

  1. Lovely photos! I had such a good time living vicariously via Instagram! Japan is a dream destination for me. I am fascinated with Japanese culture. I love the idea of the little princess and he lucky sweet that she carried! And I am so happy that you got to try my favorite sweet too! Thank you for the mention. My your travels always be filled with sweet treats and memories ❤️

    Liked by 1 person

    • Thank you, C. Japan is such a wonderful country, a magical place, and to be honest, I have never even been to the areas of Kyushu (warm and to the south) and Hokkaido (cold and to the north). The culture is interesting and fascinating to study, but being there, living there, you really get a sense for what the people are like. They are kind, warm, welcoming, and very hospitable.

      My SIL wrapped the mochi in a furoshiki, a traditional Japanese wrapping cloth and wrapped that around the little Princess. I can’t remember if I posted a picture of that on Instagram. Later, they broke apart the mochi and placed it in little gift packages to give to friends and family to eat. That is supposed to insure her all those good things. Cute tradition. GQ and his wife are not traditional people, per se, but they liked that tradition. Their daughter is very small, so it was difficult for her, but she is supposed to fall down… hardship leads to success, or something like that. 🙂

      The Ispahan sweet was amazing. Very unique and delicious. Do you ever make desserts with rose water? I have always wanted to. Thanks for the wishes. xoxo

      Liked by 1 person

      • It’s a lovely tradition. I’ve never tried mochi.
        Yes I do use rose water. It’s very popular in Indian and middle eastern cuisine. To try something easy it’s nice with watermelon and mint (u just need to be careful not to over do it). Also it’s nice on strawberries with a sprinkle of sugar. I’ve also made rose water shortbread 🌹. It can be an acquired taste but I have grown to absolutely love it.

        Liked by 1 person

        • I thought so (with the rose water)! I love it. I know you have been through hell and back, but a silver lining is that you were introduced to such amazing cultures in the process… something no one will ever be able to take from you. ❤

          Speaking of acquired tastes, mochi can really run the spectrum (like chocolate). There are cheap varieties you can pick up at an airport gift store, and lovely delicate little pastries filled with strawberries and cream, and what the Japanese prefer, sweet bean curd filling, that are divine. My favorite was the hydrangea decorated sweet (beautiful) I had in the old town of Kanazawa when I was chaperoning our older son's fifth grade trip… maybe in 2003? BE and I took traditional tea ceremony when we lived in Kyoto in the 1980's. Each week included a seasonal mochi treat that we ate with a little wooden utensil. The sweet mochi offset the bitter tea. Although my legs fell asleep every single week, it was a great experience. Very zen, mixing the Matcha powder with a wooden whisk in just the right way. The ceremony is all about the process, the aesthetic. Such a unique culture, the dichotomy between the busy weekday business life and the activities they partake in during the week to center, ground, and calm themselves. I hope the younger generation is not abandoning these rituals because I think they are key to the amazing culture, and a respect for their country and their ancestors. I also found this calming effect when doing traditional Ikebana, flower arranging. The flowers are selected carefully and placed in the little frogs in the low vases in a very specific way, with a minimalist ideal, respecting nature, shape, line, form… I find Japan so fascinating and so altogether different from the U.S.

          Liked by 1 person

  2. Your photos are always so beautiful, and that little girl is divine, she is so gorgeous!!! I’m sorry you had a bad belly, it does sound like you had a wonderful trip. How lovely to be able to spend time with your family like that. Lovely Kat, just lovely!!

    Liked by 2 people

    • She is pretty sweet, little Leila. ❤ I was sad to be sick as well, but I didn't let it keep me down, for the most part. We had an amazing time, all things considered. Although we LOVED spending time with the family, our boys, and my parents, we realized that it is definitely more comfortable and relaxing when it is just the two of us in a lovely hotel room, going at our own pace. My oldest son and my father have ants in their pants. They cannot just sit still and relax :). The house was wonderful and the family great, but it took forever to do anything and walking into a restaurant in Japan with 10 people isn't usually doable. We decided big family functions are best done in a more relaxing environment, like Hawaii. We will plan to meet in Hawaii next time… it's a half way point for all of us. But this trip was lovely. More than I could have imagined. Thank you Owlie!

      Like

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